We like to work freely allowing the brush marks to show. Some brush strokes showing in the finish are part of the “look.” A smooth look is more appropriate for a retro or contemporary look rather than a vintage look. A totally smooth finish is best achieved by diluting the paint a little and applying it with a flat ended brush in a virtually horizontal manner.
No there’s lot’s of ways – you can add water when needed for a smoother application, or you can allow the paint to thicken for more texture. If diluted more or rubbed with a damp sponge when dry, it can be applied as a coloured stain.
Don’t over distress – many finishes are best when just a little bit of paint is evenly rubbed away all over. Distressing should not be an arduous chore.
A piece of furniture finished with Chalk Paint and then waxed will stand up to “normal wear and tear.” We advise you to treat your piece as you would a fine antique. Allow the finish to cure. Avoid excessive water and scratchy objects. Use coasters under water glasses and place mats on dining tables. Clean with a soft cloth and avoid all liquid furniture polishes.
Chalk Paint was specifically designed for furniture, but it can be used on walls and other surfaces. Please remember it is a decorative paint, not a “cure all” for every surface and needs to be applied intelligently. Making a test area before starting is a good idea to iron out any potential problems
beforebit’s too late.
“Product separation” is typical for all paint products. We advise you not to pour off the fluids on top; simply stir to mix the fluids back in. Turn the can over a couple of hours before using (the good stuff does settle on the bottom), and then shake it by hand to mix.
A skin can form on the top of the paint when it is exposed to air for a long period of time. However – the skin can be mixed back into the paint and the thickened paint can be thinned with a small amount of water, if necessary. If preparing Chalk Paint for an impasto technique, it is best to pour out the paint to be thickened into a separate container. You may want to stir it occasionally while thickening to prevent a skin from forming.
There may be times when a yellow or pink stain will bleed through the paint, particularly when using a lighter colour. This is known as “bleed through.” There are a couple of reasons this happens: The piece of furniture was previously stained with a bleeding stain (typically found on pieces from the 1930s and 1940s), or you are painting over an open grain wood where its tannins are stored in the wood grain (oak is notorious for this). To remedy this apply one or two coats of clear shellac or clear knotting solution (Rustin and International are two good brands) by cloth of brush to block the staining effect. If you have already applied a coat of Chalk Paint, there is no need to remove the layer of paint; just apply the shellac directly on top.
Yes, the paint itself is safe to use on furniture destined for baby and child use. However the wax should be applied and then left for several days to completely cure allowing all the spirit to evaporate before use. Expectant mothers should not apply the wax themselves but find someone else to help!
Not knowing exactly what has been used previously can be a problem sometimes. We advise to clean the surface well and, if necessary, apply one or two coats of clear shellac by cloth or brush if they experience bleed through. Although prep work is not usually necessary sometimes a little more care is demanded.
Remove any old greasy, waxy or oily residues with a soft cloth moistened with white spirit. Clean surfaces or parts that will be painted with soap and water (Use a Scotch Brite pad to lightly scrub the surface.) A soft brush can be used to work into open grain and intricate carvings. Avoid saturating the surface Rinse with a clean rag and warm water and let the piece dry completely.
It’s always good to test the paint first in an inconspicuous area to make sure of its bonding capabilities and also to ensure that the piece was not previously stained with a colour bleeding stain. If the test patch shows any of the underlying stain colour bleeding through, it will be necessary to first apply one or two coats of shellac (see above).
Try brushing in all directions, dabbing to create a textured finish (we paint most of our furniture this way to help give an aged character).
For a smoother finish don’t use repetitive brush strokes. Longer, fluid strokes are best. Two lighter coats will work better for a flatter finish.
The paint dries in less than an hour in normal conditions – a little longer in cold and/or damp conditions.
Leave the top off the pot to thicken it up or add water for a smoother finish or to help create a wash effect. You can add water/dry out several times.
One or two coats will generally cover most jobs, we’ve found a dark colour over a dark wood normally only needs one.
To minimise any messy chalk dust – distress your furniture after waxing – although you will need to re-wax areas you’ve rubbed away. You can distress before you wax – this choice is down to you.
For outside jobs – paint three good coats and leave to harden at least overnight before exposing to rain. Do not wax as the waxes are not designed to work outside. Avoid painting teak as it’s just too oily.
Use any dark colour for a ‘blackboard’, we apply 4 coats and allow to dry thoroughly between coats, clean with a slightly damp cloth. We love using Aubusson for this.
Don’t paint radiators or cast iron baths as when they heat up the paint will crack.